Pykeijä – the fishing village that didn't burn
Bugøynes – called Pykeijä in Finnish and Kvens – is a small fishing village at the far end of the south side of Varangerfjorden in Sør-Varanger, approximately 500 km north of the Arctic Circle. The village is known as 'Little Finland' because of its Finnish and Kvens heritage, and is today a popular destination for king crab safari, sauna and ice bathing culture, colourful wooden houses and a white sandy beach by the Arctic Sea.
'Little Finland' – Finnish and Kvens heritage
Bugøynes received permanent year-round settlement in the 1800s, when Finnish immigrants – Kvens – crossed the border to escape poverty and famine in Finland. Many spread along the Norwegian coast, but in Bugøynes nearly the entire population was Finnish. This is why the place got the nickname Pikku-Suomi, 'Little Finland', and is often referred to by its Finnish name Pykeijä.
A new wave of Finnish immigration came in the 1970s, when the fishing industry flourished and young Finns came to work and stayed. Old Finnish is still spoken among some of the older residents, and the population is mainly of Finnish and Kvens descent. The place has around 200 inhabitants today.
The village that didn't burn
Bugøynes is one of very few places in Finnmark that was not burned during the forced evacuation and burning of Finnmark in 1944–45. Therefore, several older wooden houses from the 1800s still stand, and the village has a distinctive, well-preserved character.
There are various explanations for why the place was spared. One widely told version is that the German commander chose not to follow the burning order in exchange for the fishermen transporting him and the garrison by boat to Varangerbotn. However, local historians believe that the romanticised story of a 'sympathetic' officer is largely a myth – but the fact itself, that Bugøynes was not burned, is well documented.
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Sør-Varanger
Municipality
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Pykeijä
Finnish/Kvens name
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~200
Inhabitants
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King crab
Most known for
King crab capital
Bugøynes is considered one of Norway's centres for fishing red king crab. The crab was introduced to the Barents Sea from the Soviet side in the 1960s and has since spread westwards along the Norwegian coast. It is an invasive species that eats almost everything on the seabed, but it has also become a very important industry – and several small villages, including Bugøynes, have flourished since crab processing facilities were established.
It was precisely the king crab that really revitalised Bugøynes after difficult years, and the crab remains a cornerstone of the village. You can join a king crab safari by RIB boat, check the traps together with a local guide and finish with a meal of your own catch.
Sauna and Arctic bathing
The Finns are a sauna people, and the Finnish settlers brought the tradition with them – it is said that every house in the village has its own sauna. This has made Bugøynes a popular place for Arctic bathing, where you alternate between a warm sauna and a refreshing dip in the Arctic Sea.
The alternation between hot and cold provides both physical and mental wellbeing, and cold bathing is linked to reduced stress and a sense of calm. In Bugøynes, Arctic bathing is offered year-round, including at Barents Sauna Camp and the wood-fired Jäämeren Sauna right by the water's edge.
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The village that was 'put up for sale'
In the late 1980s, Bugøynes fell into a deep crisis when the fisheries moved and many became unemployed. The residents placed an advertisement in which they – as an entire village – sought work. The newspaper misunderstood, and the advertisement instead appeared as if the whole of Bugøynes was for sale. The unintended stunt attracted international attention and a stream of tourists – and has become a symbol of the village's solidarity.
Bugøynesfestivalen and the road there
Every summer, the Bugøynesfestivalen, a music and culture festival under the midnight sun, is held, usually the last weekend in July. The festival has become a gathering point for the village and visitors.
Bugøynes is located in Sør-Varanger by Varangerfjorden. By car you take the E6 and turn towards Bugøynes – the exit is marked 'Pikku-Suomi'. From Kirkenes it is approximately 102 km, and from Vadsø approximately 110 km by road. The nearest airport and Hurtigruten endpoint is in Kirkenes.
Practical information
- ☀️Best season is summer (May–July) for midnight sun, king crab safari and bathing; winter offers northern lights and Arctic tranquillity.
- 🦀Book king crab safari in advance – the tours are popular and weather-dependent.
- 🧖Bring swimwear: a sauna session with a dip in the Arctic Sea is the signature experience.
- 🛣️Follow the signs 'Pikku-Suomi' from the E6. The road to the village is narrow and winding – take it slowly.
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